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Collection: Piedmont, Barolo: Cordero di Montezemolo

 

Located in in the township of La Morra in the heart of the appellation, the Cordero family’s farm is one of Barolo’s most renowned and revered. Cordero di Montezemolo is one of just a handful of wineries to own contiguous vineyards in Barolo, where the majority of producers make wines from a patchwork of growing sites.

The family’s farmstead (Monfalletto) covers 28 hectares planted to vine including a southeastern and southwestern-facing amphitheater planted to Nebbiolo for the production of Barolo. Dolcetto, Barbera, and Arneis are planted on the northern-facing side of the hill with smaller amounts of Chardonnay and Barbera planted in the lower-lying vineyards.

In 1965, the Cordero family purchased two hectares in the Villero cru, one of Barolo’s most coveted growing sites. It is there that they make their flagship wine, Barolo Enrico VI. Altogether, the family owns and makes wine from 51 hectares of land, all estate-owned and managed.

Since 2013, the family has farmed all of its vineyards using organic practices - no herbicides, no pesticides, and no fungicides are used - and today all of their properties are certified organic.

也許你沒有聽過Cordero di Montezemolo 酒莊,但如果你有留意開Barolo產區資訊,你一定會見過這棵大樹。(名字很長,簡稱Cordero就好了)

大樹品種是黎巴嫩雪松,於1856年由新婚的Costanzo Falletti di Rodello和夫人親手種植,位於Monfalletto的最高點,幾乎成為Barolo的地標!先人已逝,鶼鰈情深卻成為後世佳話,每年更有不少情侶前往打卡,祈願家庭美滿,可說是當地著名的愛侶樹。

要談Cordero di Montezemolo 酒莊,要由14世紀說起。當年,Falletti伯爵立下戰功,受封於La MorraMonfalletto的意思也就是Falletti的山(mont)。和許多老家族一樣,經歷了許多傳承和離合,在最後一位Falletti伯爵於1940年代去世後,便將酒莊傳給了血緣最近的貴族Cordero di Montezemolo家族,至今已是第19代傳人掌舵。

故事來到1940年代,Paolo Cordero di Montezemolo成為莊主。二戰後的意大利因為是戰敗國,經濟一片蕭條,連溫飽也成疑的情況下,葡萄酒作為農產品的其中一員,品質並不受到重視。許多酒莊的設備簡陋,陳年木桶經歷了幾代人已開始滲漏,如今我們對老舊地底酒窖的美好想像,原來是當年貧窮的果實。那麼不釀酒只賣葡萄呢?老實的葡萄農同時也受到資本家的欺壓,壓價拖數是常態。四海無閒田,農夫猶餓死,務農者竟然未能糊口,原來是古今中外常見之事。

到了70年代,Paolo決定為產區作出改變。他和幾位理念相似的釀酒師去布根地學習,在種植和釀造上引進先進技術和概念,包括綠色種植、葡萄挑選(sorting) 、小木桶的使用。這群年輕人的初心是提高葡萄酒的品質,給葡萄農和釀造者帶來合理的待遇,和還Piedmont葡萄酒一個公道的評價。他們為90年代風行的現代派播下種子,也是引領酒區走向國際的先鋒。

傳統派和現代派是一個大議題。今次意北之旅走訪了Cordero di Montezemolo,難免作出不同思考。抱殘守缺,不思進取,很快會被淘汰;嘩眾取寵,為爆而爆,也是失掉初心。如何釀造一瓶好酒,才是值得釀造者思考的議題。

 

1 product
  • 2013 "Enrico VI" Barolo DOCG
    2013
    Vendor
    Cordero di Montezemolo, Piedmont
    Regular price
    $675.00
    Sale price
    $675.00
    Unit price
    per